By Jennifer Heebner, Editor in Chief
It’s officially September, so that means the industry is on the eve of jewelry’s trunk show season—fall sales events that are booked a year out for makers and dealers to bring special pieces and one-of-a-kinds to stores. AGTA asked dealers and designers what they’re expecting to sell, and their replies reflect some ongoing merchandise trends. Read on to learn more.
More Color, Fewer Diamonds
Wildly fluctuating Diamond and synthetic Diamond prices have paved the way for an increased interest in colored gemstones. Cliff Wallace of John Buechner is getting more calls for his traditional Ruby, Emerald, and Sapphire (including Padparadscha) looks as well as black Opals in three-stone settings, Princess Diana ring styles, and more; all feature fabulous cutting.
“We are particular on look,” says Wallace. “If you’re 10 feet away, the stones should look like they’re popping, and the cutting and crystal have a lot to do with it.”
There’s also less interest in halo styles. “People want more prominent gemstones with fewer Diamonds,” observes Allen Dolberg of Dorel Dolberg Co., Inc./Zoma Color. “Retailers keep asking me, ‘When are we going to stop seeing halos?’, so I have stopped designing them based on those questions. It’s become popular to let the gemstones speak for themselves rather than surrounding them with Diamonds.”
Statement pieces are also top of mind for some clients of Kimberly Collins of the eponymous gemstone and finished jewelry design firm. “They’re asking for bigger, statement earrings and not the classics that customers have seen before,” she explains. These nontraditional gems include lesser-known ones like Paraíba Tourmaline and all the colors of Sapphires.
Of course, we can’t forget the color of summer, Brat Green. Green is a trending color in teal Sapphires, Emeralds, Garnets, and that bright Brat Green that resembles Peridot.
“There’s a full gamut of blue-to-green colors that are doing really well,” says Collins. “We’re also seeing the influence of yellow gold everywhere, which looks great with green.”
Fancy Cuts
For sure, fancy cuts have become a force in gemstones. For Wallace, this means cushion shapes of Rubies or Sapphires, but for others the silhouettes are even less traditional. Think hexagons, shields, and even coffin cuts.
“As these cuts become more popular, cutters are willing to sacrifice on yield, meaning to waste more material, to get these shapes,” says Dolberg. “Demand is strong enough for them to be well received.”
At press time, he had just sold an elongated hexagon-cut Malaya Garnet in an appointment and a hexagon-shape bicolor Tourmaline in a ring. “These shapes are catching the eyes of consumers who really haven’t seen them,” he adds.
Forever Creations USA, Inc.’s Amit Bardia is seeing more interest in long emerald cuts and ovals, but less enthusiasm for pear shapes.
Unusual shapes are quick to sell for Collins, too. “Anything hexagon shaped or elongated, heart shapes, and long baguette-cut stones for long earrings or rings,” she reveals.
Linear Styles
Tennis necklaces and bracelets have been having a major moment. At John Buechner, linear layouts featuring 5–6 mm. round Rubies, Sapphires, or Emeralds in bracelets and necklaces are a traditional hit.
Dolberg uploaded a photo of a bracelet with emerald-cut teal Sapphires in 18K white gold with black rhodium to an online Facebook group and had an order for one in yellow gold within a day. The piece covered two trends—fancy shapes and green gems. “Buyers really like these teals, so cutters are cutting more of them,” he says.
Bardia is also moving many line-like numbers, including bezel-set half-eternity bands and bracelets. And as Collins previously stated, long earrings with long cuts of gemstones—set vertically or horizontally—are a popular choice among her clients.
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