DALLAS. Oct. 26, 2023 – The American Gem Trade Association (AGTA) is pleased to announce the winners of the 2023 AGTA Spectrum & Cutting Edge Awards.
This year’s competition took place Oct. 24–25 in Dallas, at the Omni Frisco Hotel at the Star, which served as a sponsor.
Entries to this year’s competition are 24% greater than last year, with a 28% increase in the Business/Day Wear category and a 26% increase in the Evening Wear category.
While there were—not surprisingly—many Sapphires and Sapphire jewels entered in the competition, other trends included Tourmaline, Garnet (including many tsavorite Garnet-accented pieces), enameled jewels, cabochon-cut gems, natural Pearls, and finished jewels with fantasy-cut or carved gems as focal points.
In the Spectrum division, extraordinary entries included an exceptional 5.34 ct. kite-shape Mahenge Spinel in the Business/Day Wear division and a massive two-piece platinum and 18K gold necklace with nearly 73 carats of Garnet in the Men’s division. In Cutting Edge, meanwhile, loose gems ranged from a 9.49 ct. peach Mahenge Malaya Garnet to a 10.42 ct. oval Portuguese-cut Rhodochrosite. There were also a number of green gems entered into both divisions of the competition this year.
“This year’s Awards are one of our best ever,” says CEO John W. Ford Sr., who has now been at the helm of AGTA for over a year. “We had an additional 100 entries this year over last, and many of them had stunning green and blue-green gems. The Omni Hotels are the new home of the Awards for the next few years, and we hope to take the competition national to other Omni venues.”
Judges this year included Allan Koo, A. Koo & Co.; Brent Malgarin, Elegant Gems, Ltd.; Christina Gandia Gambale, Greenwich St. Jewelers; Lika Behar, Lika Behar Jewelry; and Clayton Bromberg, Underwood’s Jewelers (Jacksonville, Fla.).
“The 2023 AGTA Spectrum & Cutting Edge Awards have a new home and a new vibe!” says Kimberly Collins, owner of Kimberly Collins Colored Gems and president of the AGTA board of directors. “Our judges were amazing and worked so well together. They seem to be extremely on the same page with the selections they made. As always, the integrity of the judging competition is of the upmost importance. I felt the winners had a classic, timeless aesthetic this year. I’m so proud to be part of a judging competition that holds itself to the most stringent standards.”
Many of the winning pieces will be on display during the 2024 AGTA GemFair Tucson, Jan. 30–Feb. 4. The AGTA Spectrum Gala is the highlight of 2024 Gem Week festivities and will take place on Saturday, Feb. 3, 2024, in the newly built addition to the Tucson Convention Center. For more information or tickets, log onto agta.org.
Head to @agta_gems to see all the Best of Show and First Place winning images later today! AGTA will upload winning images to the website as time permits.
Winners of the 2023 AGTA Spectrum Awards are:
Spectrum Award Winners
Best of Awards
Best of Show – Two This Year!
Spectrum: Niveet Nagpal, Omi Privé – Platinum ring featuring a 15.22 ct. black Opal accented with Tourmaline (0.72 ctw.), tsavorite Garnets (0.40 ctw.), and Diamonds (1.56 ctw.)
Cutting Edge: Joseph Ambalu, Amba Gem Corp. – Suite of 4 oval “Paraíba-type” Tourmalines (31.01 ctw.)
Best Use of Color
Jeffrey Bilgore, Jeffrey Bilgore, LLC – Platinum “Ocean & Grass Wave” bracelet featuring Sapphires (25.02 ctw.) accented with demantoid Garnets (7.87 ctw.), yellow Diamonds (1.14 ctw.), and white Diamonds (7.32 ctw.)
Best Use of Pearl
Fannie Thomas, Fannie Thomas Jewelry – 22K yellow gold “Birds Eye View” hand-carved ring featuring a cultured South Sea baroque Pearl bird
Fashion Forward
Jeffrey Bilgore, Jeffrey Bilgore, LLC – 18K yellow gold and black ceramic “Greek Key Fancy Diamond Perfection” bracelet featuring mixed fancy vivid Diamonds (14.82 ctw.) accented with tsavorite Garnets (1.70 ctw.)
Best of Single Entries – Cutting Edge
Joseph Ambalu, Amba Gem Corp. – Suite of 4 oval “Paraíba-type” Tourmalines (31.01 ctw.)
Best of Single Entries – Spectrum
Joseph Campanelli, Campanelli & Pear – 18K white gold “Something Blue” earrings featuring blue Zircons (8.50 ctw.) accented with Diamonds (0.77 ctw.)
Best Use of Platinum and Color
Mary van der Aa, Mary van der Aa Fine Jewels- in collaboration with Tucson Todd’s Gems (cutter and supplier) – Platinum and 18K “GARANATAS: From Rough to Cut” two-piece necklace featuring various species of Garnets (approx. 77.26 ctw.)
Best Use of Platinum Crown
Adam Neeley, Adam Neeley Fine Art Jewelry, Inc. – Platinum “Fantasia” ring featuring a 12.24 ct. Aquamarine accented with Akoya Pearls and Diamonds (1.00 ctw.)
Bridal Wear
Bridal Wear – 1st Place and Best Use of Platinum Crown
Adam Neeley, Adam Neeley Fine Art Jewelry, Inc. – Platinum “Fantasia” ring featuring a 12.24 ct. Aquamarine accented with Akoya Pearls and Diamonds (1.00 ctw.)
Bridal Wear – 2nd Place
Niveet Nagpal, Omi Privé – Platinum ring featuring a 3.02 ct. Ruby accented with Diamonds (1.39 ctw.)
Bridal Wear – 3rd Place
Benjamin Javaheri, Uneek Jewelry – Platinum ring featuring a 4.60 ct. Emerald accented with Emeralds (2.65 ctw.) and Diamonds (1.62 ctw.)
Bridal Wear – Honorable Mention
Gabriel Angulo, Pompos Jewelry Corporation – Platinum “Euphoria” necklace featuring an 11.94 ct. heart-shape Colombian Emerald accented with round Emeralds (0.62 ctw.) and Diamonds (0.68 ctw.)
Bridal Wear – Manufacturing Honors
Bella Campbell, BHI/Campbellian Collection – 18K white gold “Enchanting Moon” earrings featuring rainbow Moonstones (16.0 ctw.) accented with heart-shape rainbow Moonstones (2.00 ctw.), and Diamonds (0.97 ctw.)
Bridal Wear – Platinum Honors
Dallas Prince, Dallas Prince Designs – Platinum “Unity” wedding ring set featuring a 1.54 ct. pear-cut blue Sapphire accented with Diamonds (1.93 ctw.)
Bridal Wear – Gem DIVA
Erica Courtney, Erica Courtney LLC – Triple-drop earrings in 18K yellow gold featuring white Zircon (15.0 ctw.) accented with Tourmalines (2.66 ctw.) and Diamonds (1.54 ctw.)
Business/Day Wear
Business/Day Wear – 1st Place
Gabriel Angulo, Pompos Jewelry Corporation – 18K yellow gold ring featuring a 2.39 ct. Colombian Emerald accented with round Emeralds (0.18 ctw.) and Diamonds (1.52 ctw.)
Business/Day Wear – 2nd Place
Wolfgang Vaatz, Earth Terra Erde, Inc. – Argentium and 22–22.35K placer yellow gold “Aspen Duet Cuff in Turning Colors from Green to Red” featuring tsavorite Garnet (0.38 ctw.) accented with orange Sapphire (0.61 ctw.)
Business/Day Wear – 3rd Place
Gabriel Angulo, Pompos Jewelry Corporation – Platinum “Dance to Flamingo” ring featuring a 4.09 ct. cushion-cut purple pink Sapphire accented with round Diamonds (1.95 ctw.) and baguette Diamonds (1.07 ctw.)
Business/Day Wear – Honorable Mention
Randy Coffin, Coffin & Trout Fine Jewelers – Platinum ring featuring a 6.54 ct. color-change Zircon accented with blue green Grandidierite, violet Sapphires, and colorless Diamonds
Business/Day Wear – Platinum Honors
Raja Mehta, AG Gems – Platinum earrings featuring lavender-blue star Sapphires (28.50 ctw.) accented with heart-shape Diamonds (1.91 ctw.) and round brilliant-cut Diamonds (1.93 ctw.)
Business/Day Wear – Gem DIVA
Svetlana Lazar, Svetlana Lazar – in collaboration with Paul Dragone – “Wells of Wisdom” ring in 18K yellow gold featuring a subtle kinetic effect that creates the illusion of water moving beneath the gems, featuring cabochon Moonstones (6.22 ctw.) accented with Diamonds (0.32 ctw.)
Classical
Classical – 1st Place
Jeffrey Bilgore, Jeffrey Bilgore, LLC – Platinum “Moi et Toi Perfection in Green & White” ring featuring a 3.49 ct. unenhanced Colombian Emerald and a 3.36 ct. Diamond accented with Diamonds (0.43 ctw.)
Classical – 2nd Place
Gabriel Angulo, Pompos Jewelry Corporation – Platinum ring featuring a 20.14 ct. oval Ceylon Sapphire accented with pear-shape Diamonds (1.00 ctw.) and round Diamonds (1.74 ctw.)
Classical – 3rd Place and Best Use of Pearls
Fannie Thomas, Fannie Thomas Jewelry – 22K yellow gold “Birds Eye View” hand-carved ring featuring a cultured South Sea baroque Pearl bird
Classical – Platinum Innovation and Best Use of Color
Jeffrey Bilgore, Jeffrey Bilgore, LLC – Platinum “Ocean & Grass Wave” bracelet featuring Sapphires (25.02 ctw.) accented with demantoid Garnets (7.87 ctw.), yellow Diamonds (1.14 ctw.), and white Diamonds (7.32 ctw.)
Classical – Honorable Mention
Kim Nel, Alpha Inc. /DBA Brian Gavin Diamonds – in collaboration with Brian Gavin (Advisor – Mentor) – 18K rose gold and platinum “Malaya Majesty” ring featuring a 6.32 ct. peach Malaya Garnet accented with Sapphire (0.20 ctw.) and Diamonds (0.94 ctw.)
Classical – Manufacturing Honors
Jenn Breznen, Mined + Found – 14K yellow gold “Aurora in Orbit” double-sided pendant featuring a 2.91 ct. cabochon Moonstone and a 6.95 ct. cabochon spessartine Garnet accented with Sapphires (0.30 ctw.), and Diamonds (0.50 ctw.)
Classical – Platinum Honors
Jeffrey Bilgore, Jeffrey Bilgore, LLC – Platinum “Something New & Something Blue Wave” choker featuring an 11.03 ct. cushion-cut Sapphire accented with Sapphires (5.13 ctw.), demantoid Garnets (3.29 ctw.), Sapphires (1.36 ctw.), yellow Diamonds (0.39 ctw.), and white Diamonds (4.10 ctw.)
Classical – 3rd Place and Best Use of Pearls and Classical – Gem DIVA
Fannie Thomas, Fannie Thomas Jewelry – “Birds Eye View” hand-carved ring in 22K yellow gold featuring a South Sea baroque
Pearl bird
Evening Wear
Fashion Forward
Jeffrey Bilgore, Jeffrey Bilgore, LLC – 18K yellow gold and black ceramic “Greek Key Fancy Diamond Perfection” bracelet featuring mixed fancy vivid Diamonds (14.82 ctw.) accented with tsavorite Garnets (1.70 ctw.)
Evening Wear – 1st Place and Best of Show
Niveet Nagpal, Omi Privé – Platinum ring featuring a 15.22 ct. black Opal accented with Tourmaline (0.72 ctw.), tsavorite Garnets (0.40 ctw.), and Diamonds (1.56 ctw.)
Evening Wear – 2nd Place
Beatrix Laura Jessner, B & W Jewels – Platinum ring featuring a 2.69 ct. triangular no-enhancement Colombian Emerald accented with Diamonds (3.39 ctw.)
Evening Wear – 3rd Place
Adam Neeley, Adam Neeley Fine Art Jewelry, Inc. – in collaboration with Stephen Avery (cutter) – 14K gradient SpectraGold “Dono della Valle” earrings featuring green Tourmalines (47.47 ctw.) accented with Tanzanites (12.58 ctw.) and Diamonds (1.30 ctw.)
Evening Wear – Platinum Innovation
Shawndria Aghjayan, Harout R LLC – in collaboration with Wilson Amores (setter) – Platinum “A Woman’s Delightful Chaotic Life!” necklace featuring Diamonds (11.27 ctw.) and Emeralds (5.72 ctw.)
Evening Wear – Platinum Innovation
Shawndria Aghjayan, Harout R LLC – Platinum “Ignore the Sound of Chaos” earrings featuring Diamond (1.78 ctw.) and Emerald (0.30 ctw.)
Evening Wear – Honorable Mention
Nikki Swift, Nicole Mera – 18K yellow gold “A Kaleidoscope of Green” ring featuring a 2.15 ct. Australian black Opal accented with tsavorite Garnets (0.99 ctw.) and Diamonds (1.23 ctw.)
Evening Wear – Manufacturing Honors
Marcia Budet, Marcia Budet – 18K yellow and white gold earrings featuring Colombian Emeralds (8.21 ctw.) accented with Diamonds (1.74 ctw.) have removable extensions that can be worn in three different looks
Evening Wear – Platinum Honors
Helen Kim Currens, J.W. Currens, Inc. – Platinum “The American Queen 2023” brooch featuring a 6.47 ct. pear-shape Tanzanite accented with colored Diamonds (1.08 ctw.), white Diamonds (2.3 ctw.), and tsavorite Garnets (0.36 ctw.)
Evening Wear – Gem DIVA
Anita Agrawal, Jewels 4 Ever/Vartanian Jewellers – in collaboration with Anita Agrawal (Designer) and Kevork Vartanian (CAD) – “I Dream in Pink” 3-in-1 pendant and ring(s) set in 14K rose gold featuring a 3.52 ct. unheated, untreated Sri Lankan heart-shape pink Sapphire accented with pear-shape pink Sapphires (6.52 ctw.)
Men’s Wear
Men’s Wear – 1st Place
Niveet Nagpal, Omi Privé – Platinum ring featuring a 2.35 ct. oval cabochon Alexandrite accented with Alexandrite (3.07 ctw.)
Men’s Wear – 2nd Place
Carl Larson, AntiHero – 18K white gold “Captain Mayer’s Revenge” brooch/pendant featuring red Spinels (6.30 ctw.) on a hand-struck cob piece of eight accented with Diamonds (3.42 ctw.)
Men’s Wear – 3rd Place
Marc Hollmuller, Somewhere In The Rainbow – Iron and 18K rose gold “Iron Man” ring featuring an 8.19 ct. faceted-edge Garnet accented with Diamonds
Men’s Wear – Platinum Innovation
Jeffrey Bilgore, Jeffrey Bilgore, LLC – Platinum “Ocean & Grass Wave” ring featuring a 3.18 ct. demantoid Garnet and Sapphires (4.72 ctw.) accented by Sapphires (1.25 ctw.), demantoid Garnets (2.66 ctw.), and Diamonds (0.41 ctw.)
Men’s Wear – Honorable Mention and Men’s Wear – Manufacturing Honors
Michael Endlich, Pave Fine Jewelry – 22K “Sail Away” ring featuring a 10.33 ct. boulder Opal accented with Diamonds (0.06 ctw.)
Men’s Wear – Best Use of Platinum and Color
Mary van der Aa, Mary van der Aa Fine Jewels – Platinum and 18K “GARANATAS: From Rough to Cut” two-piece necklace featuring various species of Garnets (approx. 77.26 ctw.)
Men’s Wear – Platinum Honors
Inken Krause, Enhoerning Jewelry – Platinum “Zaniglas” ring featuring a 4.46 ct. oval unheated Ceylon Sapphire accented with French-cut gray Spinels (2.93 ctw.)
Men’s Wear – Gem DIVA
Robin Callahan, Robin Callahan Designs, LLC – “Hageshi” cufflinks in 14K white gold featuring Tahitian South Sea Pearls accented with white Diamonds (1.48 ctw.) and black Diamonds (1.02 ctw.)
Editor’s Choice (Not yet photographed)
Spectrum – Editor’s Choice
Business/Day Wear
Ai Van Pham, Gem & Gold Creations, “Pendulum/I Spy” pendant necklace in 14K yellow gold with Black Jade and a 13.88 ct. fantasy-cut pink Tourmaline with Opal inlay
Cutting Edge – Editor’s Choice
All Other Cut Gemstones
Bryan Lichtenstein, 3090 Gems, LLC, 12.85 ct. emerald-cut bi-color blue and green untreated Zoisite
Winners of the 2023 AGTA Cutting Edge Awards are:
Cutting Edge
All Other Cut Gemstones
All Other Cut Gemstones – 1st Place
Desmond Chan, Gem Arts International – in collaboration with Joyce Wang (cutter) and Scott Laborie (gem diagram designer) – 9.49 ct. peach Mahenge Malaya Garnet titled “The Sparkle in Her Eye”
All Other Cut Gemstones – 2nd Place
David Nassi, 100% Natural, Ltd. – 12.02 ct. modified cushion Mahenge red Spinel
All Other Cut Gemstones – 3rd Place
David Nassi, 100% Natural, Ltd. – 14.07 ct. modified cushion “Paraíba-type” Tourmaline
All Other Cut Gemstones – Honorable Mention
Bryan Lichtenstein, 3090 Gems, LLC – 12.85 ct. emerald-cut bicolor blue and green untreated Zoisite
All Other Cut Gemstones – Honorable Mention
Jaimeen Shah, Prima Gems USA – 6.47 ct. emerald-cut pink Tanzanite
Carving
Carving – 1st Place
Patrick Dreher, Dreher Carvings LLC – 515 ct. Heliodor carving titled “The Green Jewel – Frog on Heliodor”
Carving – 2nd Place
Meg Berry, Milstead Gems LLC – 228.25 ct. Morganite double-sided carving titled “Cock-a-doodle-do”
Carving – 3rd Place
Brandon Messing, BM Gems – 145.49 ct. portal-cut optical Quartz inlaid with Opal
Carving – Honorable Mention
Meg Berry, Megagem – 74.15 ct. particolored Sapphire “Sugar Magnolia” two-sided carved pendant featuring a variety of flowers
Classic Gemstone
Classic Gemstone – 1st Place
Ron Rahmanan, Sara Gem – 20.21 ct. unheated royal blue cushion-cut Sapphire
Classic Gemstone – 2nd Place
Intercolor USA – 10.34 ct. cushion-cut Ruby from Madagascar
Classic Gemstone – 3rd Place
Ron Rahmanan, Sara Gem – 5.04 ct. unheated pink cushion-cut Sapphire
Classic Gemstone – Honorable Mention
Ron Rahmanan, Sara Gem – 13.60 unheated yellow pear-shape Sapphire
Innovative Faceting
Innovative Faceting – 1st Place
Bryan D. Drummond, Drummond Gems & Jewelry – 17.13 ct. indigo precision carved Tanzanite titled “Nine of Diamonds”
Innovative Faceting – 2nd Place
Lee Haynes, LWH Gems – 121 ct. mix-cut spiral crown and twisted pavilion Amethyst titled “Multiverse”
Innovative Faceting – 3rd Place
Christopher Wolfsberg, Fossilium/Roy Leggitt – 68.93 ct. micro concave-cut Morganite
Innovative Faceting – Honorable Mention
Larry Woods, Gem Arts International – 33.26 ct. Tanzanite titled “Compass Rose Tanzanite”
North American Mined Gemstones
North American Mined Gemstones – 1st Place
Ben Kho, Kho International – 10.42 ct. oval Portuguese-cut Rhodochrosite from Colorado
North American Mined Gemstones – 2nd Place
Dalan Hargrave, Somewhere In The Rainbow – 295.15 ct. “Dazed & Dazzled” carved colorless Quartz from Arkansas
North American Mined Gemstones – 3rd Place
Derek Katzenbach, Katzenbach Designs Inc. – 31.45 ct. green Tourmaline from Newry, Maine, titled “The Maine Event”
North American Mined Gemstones – Honorable Mention
Derek Katzenbach, Katzenbach Designs Inc. – 12.50 ct. precision faceted oval blue Tourmaline from Maine, USA
Objects of Art
Objects of Art – 1st Place
Patrick Dreher, Dreher Carvings LLC – 457 gram Agate “Playtime” fish accented by 18K yellow gold, Jasper, and rock crystal Quartz
Objects of Art – 2nd Place
Desmond Chan, Gem Arts International – in collaboration with Yan Ge (carver) – 200.05 ct. Jadeite dragonhead carving titled “The Protector”
Objects of Art – 3rd Place
Kent Raible, Raible Studios LLC – 18K yellow gold and platinum “Crystal Sky City” with Diamonds, Emeralds, Spinel, Aquamarine, Tanzanite, Chalcedony, rose Quartz, rainbow Moonstone, Sugilite, Agate, Tourmaline, Lapis, Chrysoprase, Sapphires, gem silica, Topaz, and Opal
Objects of Art – Honorable Mention
Ziad H. Noshie, Almaza Jewelers – Sterling silver “The Painted Bunting Bird” featuring a Lapis base accented with Carnelians, black Diamonds (1.0 ctw.), cognac Diamonds (15.15 ctw.), tsavorite Garnets (6.50 ctw.), Sapphires (43.53 ctw.), and Tanzanites (18.25 ctw.)
Pairs & Suites
Pairs & Suites – 1st Place, Best of Single Entries Cutting Edge, and Best of Show
Joseph Ambalu, Amba Gem Corp. – Suite of 4 oval “Paraíba-type” Tourmalines (31.01ctw.) from Mozambique
Pairs & Suites – 2nd Place
Justin Zaroovabeli, The Rare Gem LLC – Pair of oval Alexandrites (6.97 ctw.) from Tanzania
Pairs & Suites – 3rd Place
Ron Rahmanan, Sara Gem – Pair of royal blue cushion-cut unheated Sapphires (10.35 ctw.)
Pairs & Suites – Honorable Mention
Stephen M. Avery, Stephen M. Avery – Pair of Morganites and Tanzanites (69.68 ctw.)
Phenomenal
Phenomenal – 1st Place
David Nassi, 100% Natural, Ltd. – 28.41 ct. oval black Opal
Phenomenal – 2nd Place
Bryan Lichtenstein, 3090 Gems, LLC – 14.55 ct. cushion-cut color-change gray violet green Zircon
Phenomenal – 3rd Place
Bruce Furst, The Cutter’s Bench – 29.22 ct. modified Portuguese-cut tsavorite Garnet titled “The Green Envy”
Phenomenal – Honorable Mention
Neal Hurni, Lewis and Clark Sapphires LLC – 5.09 ct. unheated color-change modified brilliant-cut Sapphire from Montana
AGTA is grateful to our sponsors this year, including the Omni Hotels, Platinum Guild International, and the Women’s Jewelry Association.
AGTA Spectrum Awards entries are judged on overall beauty and wearability, innovative design, effective use of materials, quality of gemstones, quality of workmanship, broad‐based consumer appeal and potential to generate positive publicity for natural colored gemstones.
AGTA Cutting Edge Awards honor excellence and creativity in lapidary arts, including natural colored gemstones and cultured pearls, carvings and other gem materials.
Platinum Honors, sponsored by Platinum Guild International (PGI), recognizes the outstanding use of platinum in colored gemstone and/or cultured pearl jewelry in 11 Spectrum Awards categories and for the Platinum Honors Innovation Awards in Bridal Wear, Business/Day Wear, Evening Wear, Classical, and Men’s. Platinum Innovation. PGI also awards two “Best of” awards – Best Use of Platinum and Color and Best Use of Platinum Crown.
WJA Gem DIVA Awards, sponsored by the Women’s Jewelry Association, grants awards in the Bridal Wear, Evening Wear, Classical and Business/Day Wear categories. All women who enter the AGTA Spectrum Awards competition are eligible for this category.
Manufacturing Honors recognizes outstanding use of colored gemstones and cultured pearls along with exceptional design in jewelry that can be readily manufactured for high volume (repeatable) distribution and sale. All designs that qualify for judging in the AGTA Spectrum Awards competition will also automatically be qualified for Manufacturing Honors judging.
Fashion Forward Honors recognizes the outstanding use of colored gemstone and/or cultured pearl in artful, trend‐setting jewelry. All designs that qualify for judging in the AGTA Spectrum Awards competition are eligible for Fashion Forward Honors judging.
For more information regarding the AGTA Spectrum Awards competition, please contact Kimmie Petersen at (800) 972‐1162 or [email protected]. For further information regarding the 2024 AGTA GemFair Tucson or the AGTA Spectrum Awards Gala, please call (800) 972‐1162 or visit our website at www.agta.org.
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The American Gem Trade Association is a not‐for‐profit Association serving the natural colored gemstone and cultured pearl industry since 1981. The AGTA serves the industry as “The Authority in Color” and is headquartered in Dallas.