Profitable Pricing for Custom: Running a Sustainable Custom Shop by MJSA Journal LIVE

Location of event: GILA ROOM
Time: 9:00 - 10:30 AM, Wednesday, February 2nd
Hosted by: Lisa Krikawa

Lisa Krikawa will explore all the factors that should go into the price of a custom creation, as well as tackling one of the trickiest questions: How do you account for your own creativity? Learn how to ensure that the custom piece you create isn't just beautiful, but also profitable. Lisa Krikawa will review all the expenses you have to consider, from overhead, materials, and labor to the promotion that keeps customers coming through the door. She'll also tackle one of the trickiest questions: How do you account for your own creativity that makes the piece unique, and how do you communicate that value?

Transparency in the Jewelry Supply Chain

Location of event: MOHAVE ROOM
Time: 9:00 - 10:00 AM, Wednesday, February 2nd
Hosted by: Sheahan Stephens, Sheahan Stephens Sapphires; + Panelist

"As the jewelry industry trends toward more sustainable and traceable methods of production, there is a growing discrepancy regarding ethical sourcing between the smaller makers and retail stores, and the big name producers and sellers. Collectively, many of the smaller manufacturers that have focused on transparency and ethical sourcing, such as traceable Fairtrade, Fairmined and ecologically extracted gemstones, have had an impact on how jewelry materials are sourced, and how the industry markets itself as green and responsible. Some of those processes include different methods of mining, heating and cutting, with an emphasis on the importance of testing verification and validation. Full disclosure on the treatments used, such as the method of heat treatment, which can be tested with 95 percent accuracy, is needed to be truly transparent. This session addresses these issues as well as those on the legal front. There are policies being developed around import/export regulation with an emphasis on ensuring that the funds from the trade are not routed to terrorist or sex trafficking organizations. The JVC--Jewelers Vigilance Committee--helps provide the legal framework in the industry and consideration for healthy responsible sourcing/transparency."

On Fire! Mining Prosperity Demantoid

Location of event: MARICOPA ROOM
Time: 9:00 - 10:00 AM, Wednesday, February 2nd
Hosted by: John Ferry & Dr. Federico, Prosperity Earth, LLC

"Dr. Federico Pezzotta and John Ferry, with nearly a half century studying and operating gems and geology in Madagascar, will present a broad overview of their demantoid mining and gem cutting project. Their project ranks as one of the most sustainable and ethical colored gem mining endeavors on the planet, and features demantoid which sits atop the pinnacle of beauty and rarity. Dr. Pezzotta will discuss the unique geology and origin of Prosperity demantoids, the variety of colors, and what distinguishes this deposit from other localities. Mr. Ferry will highlight the company’s mining operations, unique supply chain. Come hear why demantoid is the hottest and newest discovery poised to captivate the interest and inspiration of the colored gem world."

Lost Cuts of History: Exploring Forgotten Gemstone Designs through Antique Jewelry and Art

Location of event: GREENLEE ROOM
Time: 9:00 - 10:00 AM, Wednesday, February 2nd
Hosted by: Justin Prim, Barbelith in Babylon

In this talk, lapidary historian and author Justin K. Prim will present an exploration of gemstone history and design. Using surviving jewelry as well as painted depictions, Justin will examine undocumented and forgotten gemstone designs that have been lost in time. Ranging from Medici paintings to Queen Elizabeth I's tiara to the Cheapside Hoard and more, Justin will analyze experimental designs, transitional cuts, and once popular cutting designs that have been replaced by newer designs. Through this visually striking journey, the viewer will also get an overview on the technological progression of gem cutting tools that made these cuts possible, giving us a context on why these historic designs were important at the time and why they still have the power to inspire us today.

Color Dominance and Current Consumer Trends

Location of event: GRAHAM ROOM
Time: 9:00 - 10:00 AM, Wednesday, February 2nd
Hosted by: Kate Peterson, Performance Concepts, Inc.

Today's luxury consumer is, without a doubt, a dramatically evolved version of the one we knew just a few years ago. From brides looking to make a bold impression with their engagement rings to women buying pieces they've always wanted for themselves, to men who have adopted the 'what am I waiting for' mantra, luxury today has become all about the personal statement. Jewelers all over the country are reaping the benefits - but those who understand the relevance and importance of colored gemstones and who are known as the go-to resource in their community are soaring high above the crowd. What does it take to be in that group? Inventory, training, confidence and a solid understanding of what's going on with the consumer today. Come learn what the latest research is telling us about what the customer is looking for and how colored gemstone jewelry fits the bill perfectly, then hit the show floor ready to win!

Five-Star Custom Service: Nailing Internal and External Communications by MJSA Journal LIVE

Location of event: GILA ROOM
Time: 1:00 - 2:30 PM, Wednesday, February 2nd
Hosted by: Lisa Krikawa

Learn how to talk with custom customers to discover their interests and tastes, and how to keep the lines of communication flowing between that customer and your inhouse team to ensure a custom piece hits the mark—and creates the ultimate experience. Making a custom piece of jewelry involves not just creativity and craftsmanship, but also communication: You have to discover exactly what customers desire, talking through their interests and tastes until the right design emerges. Then, if you work with a team, you have to provide guidance and instructions that ensure the final piece hits the mark. Learn how to keep that communication flowing smoothly and on point to create the ultimate customer experience.

Gemology, Geology and Gossip

Location of event: MOHAVE ROOM
Time: 1:00 - 2:00 PM, Wednesday, February 2nd
Hosted by: Ron Ringsrud, Ronald Ringsrud Co.

1. Gemology – a. The relationship between iron content in emeralds and fluorescence – how it affects color and subjective attraction b. Studying the ‘gota de aciete’ effect in Colombian emeralds 2. Geology – a. The geochemistry of emeralds from different world sources b. Collecting and selling mineral specimens 3. Gossip – a. What did the Netflix series Narcos say about the Colombian emerald business? b. How DEA Agent Javier Peña almost put me in peril, and why we’re still friends."

People do Business with People

Location of event: MARICOPA ROOM
Time: 1:00 - 2:00 PM, Wednesday, February 2nd
Hosted by: Elle Hill, Hill and Co.

"The people on your team are more important now than ever before. In this talk, you will learn how to ensure client facing members of your team become brand evangelists for your business by revealing their authenticity. Being a big faceless corporation will kill you today. Consumers and B2B buyers want to do business with people whose morals and business practices align with their own priorities. The most efficient way to do this is to reveal the people behind the business, what they stand for, what they care about, and how they work not just for profits but for purpose. But how do you accomplish this? In this talk, Elle will walk you through little used techniques and step-by-step methods to ensure your team can leverage the digital world in the right way to initiate and deepen relationships with the people who will do business with your people."

Period Jewelry featuring Natural Pearls from North America

Location of event: GREENLEE ROOM
Time: 1:00 - 2:00 PM, Wednesday, February 2nd
Hosted by: Gina Latendresse

Dating back to the 1500’s, royal families from Europe considered American Natural pearls harvested in the New World to be prized possessions in the same category as gold and emeralds, even sending their Armadas in search of our unique pearls. Let’s “dive” into our rare natural pearls harvested from the domestic lakes and rivers famously featured in the dramatic Art Nouveau era (1870-1910), delicate Edwardian era (1890-1920), the geometric Art Deco era (1920-1930) and the whimsical Mid-Century designs (1950-1969).

Screening and ID of Natural and Laboratory Grown Diamonds

Location of event: GRAHAM ROOM
Time: 1:00 - 2:00 PM, Wednesday, February 2nd
Hosted by: Branko Deljanin

Considering the occurrence of undisclosed lab-grown diamonds, vigilance combined with the use of standard and advanced gemological tools are critical to ensure confidence in the supply line. While well-equipped labs can identify such non-natural origin and issue a report accordingly, diamond dealers, gemmologists, appraisers and retailers need instruments that help them to screen natural and some cases identify lab-grown diamonds. Before and during “pandemic” laboratory grown diamonds are getting in popularity worldwide among wider public and wholesalers and retailers are adding them to their list of products and will look for additional literature to educate themselves and clients on more affordable diamonds made by men. Author of the books will cover manufacturing process of HPHT/CVD grown diamonds, and results of testing 62 samples with 11 instruments on the market that use different methods for screening/detection, notably: • Pattern under Cross Polarized Filters • Transparency to SW UV light • Characteristic fluorescent/phosphorescent reaction to LWUV, SWUV and other UV light • Visible and Photoluminescence and spectroscopy • Fluorescence imaging and other techniques 30 minute Workshop and Round table will follow the lecture; a chance to see HPHT and CVD -grown diamonds under some of portable lab instruments; and ask questions to diamond expert in workshop environment.

CAD Connection 1: Tips for "Blips" when Working in Rhino by MJSA Journal LIVE

Location of event: GILA ROOM
Time: 9:00 - 10:30 AM, Thursday, February 3rd
Hosted by: Gary Dawson

CAD designers often have to deal with “blips”—small problems that can cause big headaches. Gary Dawson will explore how to handle the most common "blips" that occur in such tasks as filleting, blending, and surfacing. He'll explain which commands work best for given situations, how to develop workarounds when problems can't be avoided, and leave time to trouble-shoot attendees' specific issues.

Technology Therapy: Selling through Storytelling

Location of event: MOHAVE ROOM
Time: 9:00 - 10:00 AM, Thursday, February 3rd
Hosted by: Jennifer Shaheen

Today’s consumers buy more than a product; they buy into the story behind the product. During this workshop, you’ll learn how to make your customer the hero in your brand's story, improving your storytelling and online sales all at once. We will focus on the places you sell, as well as how to connect with your customer and guide them to the purchase path. You will learn how to identify the barriers to purchasing online and how your story can help overcome the challenges customers might face.

Colored Gemstone Market Trends in Uncertain Times

Location of event: MARICOPA ROOM
Time: 9:00 - 10:00 AM, Thursday, February 3rd
Hosted by: Richard Drucker & Stuart Robertson

The global gem trade experienced unprecedented challenges in 2020 and 2021. Mining, manufacturing and distribution sectors were all severely affected. The team at Gemworld has been tracking prices for more than 40 years and will recap some of the global impacts that have changed pricing and present some historic charts with past and future predictions. What is selling and what is going up in price will be part of this annual presentation by the industry leaders in pricing and market information.

Miner to Jeweler: Ammunition for the Sales Counter

Location of event: GREENLEE ROOM
Time: 9:00 - 10:00 AM, Thursday, February 3rd
Hosted by: Gem Legacy

A miner, a broker, and a jeweler walk into a room. What do you get? A lively discussion on the opportunities and challenges for the colored gem supply chain of the future and the direct impact on your store and sales! Bring your questions to this interactive conversation about how supply chains, consumer awareness and demands, and a seller's responsibility are changing and what that means for your future sales. Take home an inspired strategy to share with your clients the stimulating story of how colored gems change lives.

Romancing the Stone

Location of event: GRAHAM ROOM
Time: 9:00 - 10:00 AM, Thursday, February 3rd
Hosted by: John Ford, Lightning Ridge Collection by John Ford; Panelists: Monte Zajicek, Jeffrey Bilgore, Ron Rahmanan & Fran Mastoloni

On the Ground Gem Sourcing by AGTA exhibitors Jeffrey Bilgore, John Ford, Fran Mastoloni, Ron Rahmanan, and Monte Zajicek offering Tucson GemFair buyers a unique perspective of how our gems make it to the GemHall floor.

CAD Connection 2: Transforming in Rhino by MJSA Journal LIVE

Location of event: GILA ROOM
Time: 1:00 - 2:30 PM, Thursday, February 3rd
Hosted by: Gary Dawson

The "transform" command in CAD is crucial to positioning and orienting elements when modeling a design. This interactive seminar will demonstrate how to use the transform commands and their sub-commands most effectively, as well as examining how to create and modify SubD objects—a new geometry type that can create editable, highly accurate shapes.

A Canary in the Ruby Mine: Low Temperature Heat Treatment Experiments in Burmese Ruby

Location of event: MOHAVE ROOM
Time: 1:00 - 2:00 PM, Thursday, February 3rd
Hosted by: Billie Hughes, Lotus Gemology Co. Ltd.

One of the challenges facing gemologists today is the detection of low temperature heat treatment. Lotus Gemology’s Billie Hughes will discuss the results of their recent experiments in heating Burmese ruby. This lecture will include many before-and-after photomicrographs, as well as a discussion of how spectroscopy and fluorescence can aid in detection.

North American Gems

Location of event: MARICOPA ROOM
Time: 1:00 - 2:00 PM, Thursday, February 3rd
Hosted by: Shelly Sergent, Somewhere In The Rainbow

Did you know only 13 states in the USA produce gem quality minerals in quantity to export? Did you know that Red Beryl is only found in one place on the planet, in the USA? Did you know there are fabulous pearls discovered right here in the USA? America is truly unique in gem and mineral history and if you've always wondered about collecting gems from right here in the USA, don't miss this presentation. Please join Shelly Sergent, Curator of Somewhere In The Rainbow, as she shares insight of the places to find these rare treasures and maybe even meet a mine owner and gem cutter specializing in American gems.

Designer-Retailer Open Discussion: Consumer Views on Responsibly Sourced Gems & Impacts on the Supply Chain

Location of event: GRAHAM ROOM
Time: 1:00 - 2:00 PM, Thursday, February 3rd
Hosted by: Eric Braunwart, Columbia Gem House, Inc.

Eric Braunwart, Founder and President of Columbia Gem House, has led the charge for responsibly sourced colored gems for the last 20+ years. In this presentation, he will be joined by a panel of designer-retailers to discuss consumer views on responsibly sourced gems and how that has evolved their work and/or businesses over the last 5 years. They will also discuss the differences between business practice vs. marketing tactics and how this ultimately impacts the supply chain. This group will gather audience questions upon arrival, which will lead the discussion and open the floor for audience participation.

Gübelin Gemstone Rating System; Simplicity for the Complex World of Coloured Gemstones

Location of event: GREENLEE ROOM
Time: 1:00 - 2:00 PM, Thursday, February 3rd

The Gübelin Gemstone Rating assesses the quality, rarity and salience of a specific gemstone and translates these attributes into a simple number: the Gübelin Points. It gives meaningful orientation for privates and for professionals who wish to get a comprehensive ranking for their gemstones, in particular as the trade and the consumers become more digital and cannot physically see and touch them. So far, there is no common language to describe the key characteristics to communicate beauty, quality or rarity in a consistent way. The Gübelin Points intend to provide comparability and direction by reducing the complexity inherent to coloured gemstones. Over the course of this seminar we will give you some insight into the system and explain the factors that go into calculating a gemstone rating.

Gaining an Edge: Drawing Common Gemstone Cuts by MJSA Journal LIVE

Location of event: GILA ROOM
Time: 9:00 - 10:30 AM, Friday, February 4th
Hosted by: Rémy Rotenier

When presenting design concepts, a picture can make all the difference when communicating to either a customer or a colleague. Rémy Rotenier will demonstrate how you can draw emerald-cut, round, and princess-cut gems (even if you have no background in art) that can boost retail sales and clarify production details This is an interactive session; pencils and pads will be available on site.

The Science, Art and Business of Faceting

Location of event: MARICOPA ROOM
Time: 9:00 - 10:00 AM, Friday, February 4th
Hosted by: John Bradshaw, John J. Bradshaw

Most people within the jewelry trade understand the importance of "cut" when it comes to diamonds but ignore or at least do not consider what is involved in the cutting for colored gems. Historically, color was king in determining the value of a gem but cutting has become an increasingly important factor. Beautiful gems do not happen by accident. The physical and optical properties of a gemstone must be understood. This "science" part involves taking into consideration refractive index, color, clarity, cleavage, hardness, optic axis, critical angle and dispersion. The "art" of faceting is the cutters vision to manipulate the physical and optical properties of the gem material to it's highest and best use. The "business" portion is understanding the market where the stone will be sold as well as knowing if the color, clarity, yield, size and cost of the finished gem would yield a profit in that market.

Mine to Design (The Road to Responsibility)

Location of event: GREENLEE ROOM
Time: 9:00 - 10:00 AM, Friday, February 4th
Hosted by: Hayley Henning, Greenland Ruby

"This panel session will be hosted by Hayley A. Henning, CCO of Greenland Ruby and will bring together a selection of jewelry designers to discuss their exotic travel stories and how mine visits have impacted their creativity, design and businesses. Through a casual and inspirational conversation, each designer will reveal their personal experiences and unveil how those visits inspired their design process along with their jewels. The session will give the audience insights into the lives of each designer, their design aesthetic and thinking process, how ideas develop from the moments in the mine, to the drawings in the studio, and then into the hands of the consumer."

GIA Research Update: Gemology as an Evolving Technical Science

Location of event: GRAHAM ROOM
Time: 9:00 - 10:00 AM, Friday, February 4th
Hosted by: Dr. James Shigley, GIA Distinguished Research Fellow:

This presentation will discuss how gemology has evolved over the past several decades into a more technical science in terms of gem identification challenges and the tools and methods being used to address those challenges. The presentation will conclude with some speculation on how gem research will continue to evolve over the next few years.

Going Organic: A Step-by-Step Guide to Drawing Pearls by MJSA Journal LIVE

Location of event: GILA ROOM
Time: 1:00 - 2:30 PM, Friday, February 4th
Hosted by: Rémy Rotenier

Many fashion experts have dubbed pearl jewelry the "ultimate fashion movement" of the past year. Pearls have found their way into assorted styles—even men's accessories and engagement rings. In this hands-on session, Rémy Rotenier will teach you to sketch pearls of different types—round white, black Tahitian drops, and baroque—so you can bring them to life in all styles of jewelry, amazing your customers. No experience necessary, just the desire to draw. Pencils and pads will be available on site.

Color Dominance and Current Consumer Trends

Location of event: MOHAVE ROOM
Time: 1:00 - 2:00 PM
Hosted by: Kate Peterson, Performance Concepts, Inc.

Today's luxury consumer is, without a doubt, a dramatically evolved version of the one we knew just a few years ago. From brides looking to make a bold impression with their engagement rings to women buying pieces they've always wanted for themselves, to men who have adopted the 'what am I waiting for' mantra, luxury today has become all about the personal statement. Jewelers all over the country are reaping the benefits - but those who understand the relevance and importance of colored gemstones and who are known as the go-to resource in their community are soaring high above the crowd. What does it take to be in that group? Inventory, training, confidence and a solid understanding of what's going on with the consumer today. Come learn what the latest research is telling us about what the customer is looking for and how colored gemstone jewelry fits the bill perfectly, then hit the show floor ready to win!

Celebrating Black History Month with Women Leaders in the Jewelry & Watch Industry

Location of event: MARICOPA ROOM
Time: 1:00 - 2:00 PM
Hosted by: Jennifer Markas, Women's Jewelry Association and Elyssa Jenkins, Black in Jewelry Coalition

Join WJA and BIJC as they brings together women who are making a big impact advancing professional opportunities for Black women in the jewelry and watch industry. WJA will sit down with WJA and BIJC members to learn how they are celebrating Black heritage in their businesses, and how you can support them throughout the year too! Key Takeaways: 1. Hear from WJA and BIJC Members about how they are celebrating their heritage this month and throughout the year, and working towards a more inclusive industry. 2. Learn about industry-wide initiatives that are helping to advance and shape more opportunities for Black jewelry professionals, and how you can get involved and support these impactful activities. 3. Understand how you can better educate yourself on diversity, equity and inclusion and how that will positively impact the future of your business, including your staff, your clients and your overall bottom line.

Call Me by Your Name: Accurately Advertising Colored Gemstones

Location of event: GRAHAM ROOM
Time: 1:00 - 2:00 PM
Hosted by: Tiffany Stevens & Sara Yood, Jewelers Vigilance Committee

The Federal Trade Commission Jewelry Guides regulate advertising in the jewelry industry, explaining to marketers how to label their products so that consumers understand their purchases. This nomenclature can be challenging to understand, but it’s actually quite easy in application. Tiffany Stevens and Sara Yood of the Jewelers Vigilance Committee will review the Jewelry Guides provisions that apply to colored gemstones, including guidelines about accurate varietal names, laboratory-grown gemstone nomenclature, and descriptors for pearls. This presentation will also touch on the Green Guides, the FTC’s dossier on eco-friendly advertising, and recent changes to the “Made in USA” rule which requires that all or virtually all of the component parts of a product originate in the US in order to call a product “Made in USA”.

Building a Responsible Gold Supply Chain, Building Customer Desire, Trust and Loyalty

Location of event: GREENLEE ROOM
Time: 1:00 - 2:00 PM
Hosted by: Panel: Toby Pomeroy, Mercury Free Mining; Mark Hanna, The Richline Group; Eric Laker, Lashbrook; Kesha Frank, Fairtrade Jewellery Co.; Moderator: Brandee Dallow, SCS Global

Where is your gold from? Was it mined responsibly? Does the mining community benefit long-term? A new generation of conscious jewelry buyers is looking for bold jewelry companies who stand up for gold miners’ wellbeing, a clean environment, and a responsible gold supply chain that empowers all who are associated with it. The sustainability movement is only beginning as consumers are increasingly looking to support businesses that operate in harmony with people and the planet. Thriving 21st century jewelry companies effectively communicate their ESG commitment, supported by clear evidence of their actions taken toward achieving sustainability. Attend this seminar and discover how your company can be at the cutting edge of what your customers want behind all their jewelry purchases; an inclusive, equitable, responsible, clean gold supply chain.