By Jennifer Heebner, Editor in Chief
You’ve heard folks say it countless times—Spectrum & Cutting Edge Awards change lives. Well, is it true? Many will tell you it is, and they do.
The Awards officially opened for entries yesterday, so in the spirit of celebration, AGTA reached out to some past winners to learn more about their milestone moments and if the praise made a difference. (Spoiler: It did!)
This year also marks an important anniversary—40 years of Spectrum Awards. It’s hard to believe, but four decades have passed since the start of what have arguably become the most important jewelry awards in the industry. (The Cutting Edge Awards debuted in 1992.)
Hundreds of jewelry designers have secured career-changing accolades that have boosted sales, earned respect from peers, and inspired new generations of artists. Sure, there’s always a bit of grumbling from those who didn’t win (one of the biggest complaints is that many of the same names repeatedly win), but those who’ve served as judges—including yours truly—note that judges change every year and the masterful skills of incredible talent just continue to strengthen.
But enough from me, here’s what some of the industry’s rock stars reveal happened when they won Spectrum Awards.
Mary van der Aa, VDAACO/Mary van der Aa Fine Jewels
When Mary van der Aa first entered the Spectrum Awards upwards of 10 years ago, she didn’t win, but recognition in recent years likely makes up for it.
In 2023, van der Aa took home the Best Use of Platinum and Color award for her and Todd Wacks of Tucson Todd’s Gems (cutter and supplier) 18K “GARANATAS: From Rough to Cut” two-piece necklace in platinum with various species of Garnets that weigh approximately 77.26 carats in total.
In the 2022 Awards, van der Aa earned three prizes—Best Use of Platinum and Color, Bridal Wear – Platinum Honors, and Classical – Platinum Honors.
All the wins, she says, have made a difference.
“I feel like I’m ‘in the club,’” she explains. “When I tell people I won Spectrum Awards, I find they are more trusting and order more. Those awards validated what I’m doing. And since I never duplicate a piece, some people have fought over who will buy something. At the Las Vegas shows, people were stopping me and asking me to collaborate with them. That has not happened before, so the Spectrum Awards have definitely gotten my name out there.”
Last year’s winning necklace is now on display at GIA, and van der Aa is hopeful that the academic giant will purchase it, though several of her clients have expressed interest. Meanwhile, van der Aa keeps busy interacting with ongoing social media reshares of “GARANATAS.”
“Every day I wake up there are more reshares of it,” she says. “I think it’s been shared on social media more than 50 times.”
Niveet Nagpal, Omi Privé
Before Niveet Nagpal assumed a more directional role in his family’s Omi Gems business, named for his dad Omi, the industry knew them as primarily a gemstone dealer. They made some finished jewels private label, but they were known for their loose goods. That changed in 2011 when a platinum, Diamond, and Sapphire bracelet took the Best Use of Platinum and Color Award in Spectrum, and a ring in platinum and 18K gold with tsavorite Garnet, yellow Diamonds, and colorless Diamonds earned 1st Place in Bridal Wear.
After those wins, the Nagpals were inspired to start a finished jewelry line known today as Omi Privé.
“People were reaching out to us saying, ‘I didn’t know you made jewelry,’” he says. “It was a personal goal of mine to win a Spectrum Award because it cements you as a designer and gives you legitimacy and confidence. And it’s not easy to win a Spectrum Award; judges look at the design, quality of gemstones and manufacturing, and overall panache of the piece. It’s hard to get all four elements right.”
In 2023, the company took the coveted Best of Show Spectrum Award for a platinum ring with a 15.22 ct. black Opal with tourmaline, tsavorite Garnets, and Diamonds. (This piece also took 1st place in Evening Wear.) Omi Privé also took home 1st Place in Men’s Wear and 2nd Place in Bridal Wear.
The Best of Show win was a career highlight.
“I was so proud of our whole team,” he says. “It gave us a lot of exposure. And while we haven’t yet sold that ring, we have sold a lot of other smaller Opal pieces. If you’re a designer and haven’t entered, take a chance—there are always first-time winners. Spectrum gives you a lot of exposure and prestige.”
Adam Neeley, Adam Neeley Designs
Jewelry designer Adam Neeley earned his first Spectrum Award in 2012, taking 2nd Place in Evening Wear for his “Di Lusso” ring in 14K gold with Peridot and blue Sapphires. That win paved the way for many more, including some double wins in collaboration with gemstone cutter Stephen M. Avery of the eponymous firm.
Avery cut a suite of green Tourmaline and Tanzanite that took Best Use of Color in the 2021 Awards, and in 2023, Neeley had set the gems into a pair of earrings called “Dono della Valle”
that took 3rd Place in the Evening Wear category. In 2018, Avery entered a pair of indicolite Tourmalines that took 1st Place in Pairs & Suites Cutting Edge, and the following year, Neeley set them into the “Aria” earrings which took the Fashion Forward honor in Spectrum.
“It’s wonderful to have the honors and recognition,” says Neeley. “Our clientele loves to see that we win awards, and they are often interested in buying these pieces. Our Best of Show Award in 2021 for the “Galassia” earrings was an extraordinary win. Oftentimes, I’ll make a piece to enter in the Awards, and by the time Tucson rolls around, I’ll have to borrow it back from the buyer to display with other winners at the show.”
Fannie Thomas, Fannie Thomas Jewelry
Fannie Thomas may have started her jewelry design business making silver and horn styles followed by repeatable fine-jewelry numbers—think birthstone jewels and tennis necklaces—but it was when she followed her inner design voice that accolades rolled in.
“I’ve always loved organic looks, and that’s what I’m doing more of,” she explains. “Last year was the first time I entered the Spectrum Awards and I won. Since then, people stop me at shows and say, ‘Aren’t you the bird Pearl girl?’”
Thomas has noticed an increase in recognition from peers, but that hasn’t yet translated to increased sales. That bird Pearl reference, meanwhile, refers to her “Birds Eye View” ring featuring a baroque-shape cultured South Sea Pearl that took Best Use of Pearl, 3rd Place Classical, and the Gem Diva Award in the 2023 Spectrum Awards. The win encouraged her to make more less-traditional looks.
“I was at a trunk show in Lubbock, Texas, a week before the Awards deadline when I decided to enter,” she says. “That piece had a lot of interest and sold within a week. Since then, I’ve made one more and will only make five total, though I’ve made variations in earrings and pendants. That win was a nice motivational boost for me to stay true to myself.”
John W. Ford, Sr., CEO, AGTA, and former Owner of Lightening Ridge Collection by John Ford
John Ford is now the fearless leader of AGTA, but for many years before that he sold black Opal from Australia. During that time, he won nine Spectrum and one Cutting Edge Award, so he knows firsthand the impact the Awards have. Interestingly, his company name actually became well known for a Spectrum entry that didn’t win anything at all. This occurrence is a testament to the power of Editor’s Day, when invited media folks visit and view all entries (not just winners), and the Awards—whether entrants win or not!
Well-respected industry journalist Cheryl Kremkow attended Editor’s Day in 2014 and wrote about some of her favorite pieces, including a massive karat-gold black Opal and Diamond necklace made by Ford. The design didn’t nab an official Award, but Kremkow voted for it as her Editor’s Choice selection. The necklace didn’t win that title, either, but Kremkow’s written admiration of it on her blog was enough to inspire buyers to start calling Ford.
“She credited me as an up-and-coming designer, and I didn’t even know about it until people from Europe started calling me,” Ford recollects in amusement. “It was a transformative moment and put me on a world stage.”
After he started winning, business strengthened even more. “I went from being a regional designer to an almost international designer nearly overnight,” he says.
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